Name and structure of different types of remedial shoes. Give description of the condition under which these shoes may be used and the way in which they affect improvement/relief.
Heart Bar Shoe
Supports the pedal bone in Lamanitic cases.
Egg Bar Shoe
Supports the Navaicular bone in the cases of Navicular Syndrome.
Graduated Shoe - Wedge
In order to alleviate problems, the farrier may modify some of the above points The shoe may be 'fitted wide' to encourage the wall to grow to the shoe, thereby improving the shape of the foot
The heels of the shoe may protude beyond the hoof to provide support if the horse has collapsed heels
The hind shoes may be set back further than normal if the horse/pony habitually over-reaches
TYPES OF SHOES
This simple form of shoe is now rarely used, it consists of an unmodified bar of iron, shaped, stamped with nail holes \nx provided with a toe clip.It is only suitable for a horse doing slow work, since it has no provision against slipping or 'interfering' (knocking or brushing)
This is a modified form of the plain stamped, designed to meet the needs of a horse moving at a fast pace on grass amd pulling up short. The hunter shoe is made from concave iron to reduce the risk of suction in soft going and to give a more secure grip on the ground. The Part that comes into contact with the ground is 'fullered' provided with a groove to ensure a better foothold.
The heel of the front shoe is 'pencilled' to avoid the risk of it being caught by the hind shoe and being pulled off.
On a hind shoe, quarter clips are used and the toe is 'safed off'- the outer ground edge being rounded and the shoe set back under the foot to lessen the chance of an over-reach.
Traditional the outer heel used to be provided with a calkin to give greater control when pulling up short.
For similar reasons the inner heel had a wedge (which was less likely to cause 'brushing' than a calkin)
Due to the wide-spread use of manufactured shoes, these have been largely superceded by the use of road studs or nails with tungsten carbide cores fitted on the inside and outside of the shoes
There are three types of Hunter Shoe
1. Left Fore
2. Left Hind
3. Rolled Toe
4. Grass Tip
5. Broad Web
If a horse/pony drags his hind feet, the metal should be drawn up and over the toe to protect it from wear
ANTI-BRUSHING SHOE (Feather Edged)
This type of shoe is used for horses/ponies who 'brush' (hit the opposite leg)
The inner branch is 'feathered' and fitted close in under the wall so that the risk of striking the opposite leg is reduced to a minimum.
Being slightly higher on the inside, this type of edge causes the horse to move slightly wider, which also helps to prevent brushing.
There are no nail holes in the inner branch of the anti-brushing shoe.
BROAD WEB SHOE
This is used mainly for horses/ponies whose legs suffer from the effects of concussion, who have flat or brittle feet, or have suffered from laminitis.
It is wider than a hunter shoe, thereby distributing the weight over a broader area and protecting more of the solar surface
The Grass Tip is a thin, half length shoe sometimes worn by horses/ponies during periods of rest at grass, it protects the wall of the foot at the toe, it is not commonly used since it upsets the balance of the foot
The farrier may design specific types to alleviate the effects of injury, malformation or disease in the foot.
Various materials besides metal, and various shapes, sometimes with bars are used according
to the needs of the individual horse
Metal studs can be fitted into the heel of a shoe to lessen the risk of slipping
Have a hardened metal core which being slower wearing than the shoe itself, presents a rough surface to the ground.
They are usually fitted when the horse/pony is shod and can be removed when not required, they don't protude too much from the shoe, so therefore the balance of the foot is hardly affected.
These can be obtained in various shapes and sizes to suit different conditions and needs.
The farrier prepares a threaded hole, and the studs can be fitted and removed with a spanner, they are not designed for use on the roads and should be removed after use as they distort the balance of the feet, they can also damage the floors of horseboxes and other surfaces such as tarmac.
When you remove studs, oiled cotton wool needs to be inserted into the holes to prevent them becoming clogged up.
The cotton wool can be easily removed with a horseshoe nail, the nail can also be used to clean out the holes if they become caked with mud.
A metal 'tap' is to be used for re-threading the stud holes.
After use, the studs should be cleaned and stored in an oily cloth to prevent them from rusting.